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A Japanese Bistro refreshingly different

Reviewed by Tim Pawsey, from Vancouver Courier's

Publish Date: 09-Feb-2005

The continued ascent of Japanese food in the continent's most Asiatically attuned city is evident at this smart-casual room above the swimsuit and coffee dens of Denman and Davie. Not that long ago, we were besieged by a relentless wave of sushi. One more robo sushi and we were ready to cry "Umami" (or something like that) to halt the wasabi fuelled invasion.

Then came the robata bars, the ramen joints and ultimately the izakayas-a salvation in comparison with great spots like Hapa, Shiru-Bay and the Guus, where you can work your way through small plates to your heart's content. And lift a few bamboos with some friends while you're at it.

Black Tuna is a refreshing effort that combines several elements. Its "Japanese Bistro" moniker makes perfect sense, as it falls neatly between the cracks of categorization. At this relaxing hybrid of a room with long-necked glimpses of English Bay, Korean born, Japanese-trained chef Jacob Jung turns out some of the tastiest Japanese plates we've encountered.

The space greets with a miniature water garden with small ponds, quiet trickles and giant bamboos-a traditional touch added to the otherwise contemporary maroon and black trim that yields the focus to a small, open kitchen.

Understated, unpretentious and a whole lot less frantic than your local izakaya hot spot, this meandering bistro revels in a culinary free fall. Familiar themes of sushi, sashimi, boxes, udon, gyoza, small cold and hot plates are all in play, as well as a prix fixe with a choice of entr?e that includes miso soup, salad and dessert ($29.95).

You can take the easy route-order a well-priced set menu for two-and neither you nor your wallet will come away feeling empty. It's better, though, to pick your way through this clever list. Or maybe let "Chef Jacob" handle it for you omakase style.

The chef's past endeavours included Taka Sushi, before launching a successful salad dressing and sauce manufacturer now run by his brother. This way he still gets to make the sauces he wants to-some 40 plus, which show up at various times.

The plates enjoy a flourish often more continental than detail-driven Japanese. Our meal starts with a complimentary nibble: a perfect piece of mackerel filet, its dense white and dark flesh foiled by zippy sweet chilli paste.

Sauces come to the fore with picks from the irresistibly different sushi roll line up. The showstopper is the unlikely "Philly Roll," in which cream cheese delivers a smooth conclusion to a ton of real crab meat, wrapped with avocado in perfect rice and topped with a thin slice of sashimi grade salmon and wasabi yogurt. Addictive. Beside it, the salmon and spicy scallop roll is a worthy competitor: a core of fiery chopped scallop and tobiko and mayo, topped with creamy Thai peanut sauce. I make a mental note to ditch the sake next time in favour of something off-dry and white from the eclectic, easily priced wine list.

Our meal, including sensuous tuna tataki with ponzu, scallop gyoza (slightly doughy) and green tea ice cream (served in a giant forest green cup and saucer!) checked out at $65 including taxes-more than fair for the quality and creativity at play.

Courier reviews are conducted anonymously.

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